Published Works
Published Work
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SUPERTOPO: Washington Pass Climbing
Washington Pass Climbing is the most detailed climber’s guide to what is arguably the best alpine rock climbing area in the Northwest. Author Ian Nicholson included 59 of the best routes and climbed every single one to ensure accuracy of the information. Nearly 20 of the routes have never before been covered with a published topo.
This book includes formerly obscure climbs and variations of all grades to provide more options for avoiding crowds. Included routes feature everything from short 4th class scrambles to 5.13 big walls. While the book features many hard test pieces in the region, there is a generous selection of moderate multi-pitch climbs in the 5.6-5.10 range.
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Climbing Self Rescue Essential Skills: Technical Tips & Improvised Solutions
The world of climbing self-rescue is ever-changing, but the constant is that techniques need to be something that climbers can use in the real world with the gear they already have with them. Elite climber Ian Nicholson has written Climbing Self-Rescue with this in mind, offering technical systems that follow patterns that are easy to remember and that can be applied to solve a wide range of problems. This lavishly illustrated guide teaches the skills a climbing team needs to execute a successful technical rescue on its own.
Written for climbers with experience on multipitch routes, Climbing Self-Rescue addresses key skills including escaping the belay, lowering a climber, dealing with a stuck rope, improvising ascenders and using aid-climbing techniques in rescues, rescuing an injured leader, and so much more!
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Glacier Climbing and Crevasse Rescue: Essential Skills for Snow Travel
Through clear writing and detailed step-by-step photos, IFMGA-certified guide Ian Nicholson breaks down the real hazards climbers face in snow-covered mountain terrain—and the practical skills needed to move efficiently and safely. Glacier Climbing & Crevasse Rescue covers the full foundation: essential ropework, the tools of the trade (ice axe, crampons, harness, snow pickets, and more), footwork and movement on snow and ice, trip planning and navigation, rope rigging, anchor building, belaying, rappelling, and field-ready self-rescue techniques.
Beyond the fundamentals, the book takes a deep dive into what most climbers and ski mountaineers worry about most: crevasse rescue. You’ll learn modern methods for responding when a partner falls into a crevasse, plus practical guidance for skiers and splitboarders who may face the same scenario in glaciated terrain. Throughout, sidebars from expert contributors highlight key takeaways from real-world incidents—valuable, hard-earned lessons that make the techniques stick and help readers build judgment along with skills.
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Freedom of the Hills 10 (Part III Chair and Chapter 13 Author)
Mountaineers Books is proud to present the 10th edition of this master guide, commonly referred to as "Freedom." From planning a weekend backpacking trip to navigating the logistics of a months-long alpine expedition, from tying knots and hitches to essential belaying and rappelling techniques, from setting up camp in the wilderness to summiting glaciated peaks--this comprehensive textbook written by climbers for climbers covers it all.
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Climbing Magazine Various
Bomber ice screws, improvised rappels and multi-pitch belay station management are just some of the topics Ian has written articles for Climbing Magazine on that have appeared bith in print and on the web.
Since 1970 Climbing Magazine has inspired and informed the climbing world, publishing climbing news, interviews, features, and skills advice.

