About Washington Alpine Guides - Ian Nicholson

Ian Nicholson is an IFMGA/UIAGM–certified Mountain Guide based in Washington State and the founder of Washington Alpine Guides. With nearly two decades of full-time professional guiding experience, Ian has guided alpine, rock, and ski objectives throughout the North Cascades, the greater Cascade Range, Alaska, the Canadian Rockies, South America, and the European Alps. His guiding is grounded in efficient movement through complex terrain, conservative and adaptive risk management, and delivering high-quality mountain experiences tailored to real conditions—not fixed itineraries.

Ian is a senior member of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Instructor Team and is one of the few instructors qualified to teach across all three disciplines: Rock, Alpine, and Ski. In parallel, he serves as an AIARE National Pro Instructor and Pro Trainer, teaching professional-level avalanche courses and mentoring new avalanche educators. This dual role—active guide and senior instructor—keeps his approach current, field-tested, and directly applicable to consequential terrain.

In addition to his guiding and instructional work, Ian is a widely published author of technical mountain literature. His book Climbing Self-Rescue: Essential Skills, Technical Tips & Improvised Solutions has been released and is used by climbers, guides, and instructors worldwide. Glacier Climbing and Crevasse Rescue, released in 2025, focuses on modern systems and decision-making for snow and glaciated terrain. He is currently co-authoring Alpinism: Strategy, Techniques, and Tactics, a comprehensive modern alpine climbing manual scheduled for release in fall 2026, and Rock Climbing: Mastering the Basics, slated for spring 2027. Across all of his writing, Ian emphasizes clarity, efficiency, and techniques proven through years of professional guiding.

Guiding Philosophy

At the core of Ian’s guiding philosophy is the belief that strong decision-making matters more than rigid objectives. Every trip is shaped by current conditions, terrain complexity, and client goals, with an emphasis on conservative margins, clear communication, and efficient systems. Whether guiding an alpine rock route, a ski mountaineering objective, or an instructional course, Ian prioritizes thoughtful terrain selection and adaptable plans that reflect how mountains actually work.

Through Washington Alpine Guides, Ian works with climbers and skiers who want to build real competence while experiencing classic terrain in Washington and beyond. From introductory alpine climbs to complex ski mountaineering objectives, his goal is to help clients move confidently, safely, and deliberately through the mountains—developing skills and judgment that last well beyond a single trip.